[Jukebox-list] Wurlitzer 2610

Robert J. Darrah rdarrah at neb.rr.com
Thu Jan 29 16:10:42 PST 2004


I take it no one is familiar with a Wurlitzer 2610 Remote Volume/Cancel
unit?

-----Original Message-----
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Subject: Jukebox-list Digest, Vol 6, Issue 29

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Today's Topics:

   1. Motor Rumble - Seeburg G (WHITE, JAMES P)
   2. AMI C speaker connections, mirror (John Lee)
   3. Rock-Ola 1428 coin machanism (Terry Houchins)
   4. (no subject) (JCAR41 at aol.com)
   5. Re: (no subject) (Ken In Texas)
   6. Re: Rock-Ola 1428 coin machanism (Ron Rich)
   7. Re: (no subject) (Phil Docker (jukedock) - Jukebox Legend)
   8. Re: Motor Rumble - Seeburg G (Ron Rich)
   9. 2300S Elect Selector 'F' solenoid (don tutt)
  10. Re: Rock-Ola 1428 coin machanism (mike)
  11. Re: (no subject) (mike)
  12. Re: HF100R - slow turning motor question (Carl Haines)
  13. Re: Rock-Ola 1428 coin mechanism, more info (matt)
  14. Re: Rock-Ola 1428 coin mechanism, more info (Terry Houchins)
  15. Re: HF100R - slow turning motor question (Ron Rich)
  16. Re: HF100R - slow turning motor question (BSA)
  17. Re: HF100R - slow turning motor question (BSA)
  18. NSM ES5 technology (Phil Docker (jukedock) - Jukebox Legend)
  19. strange (Roy Kleijn)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 14:13:05 -0600
From: "WHITE, JAMES P" <JWHITE3 at entergy.com>
Subject: [Jukebox-list] Motor Rumble - Seeburg G
To: "'jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com'"
	<jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Message-ID:
	<B1C722BF0B7BD211BAC100105A2486630AA92849 at WF3-EXS01.wat.entergy.com>
Content-Type: text/plain

Hi Guys,
This machine has a lot of motor rumble through the speaker after the amp is
un-muted.  I can grab the motor with my hand and it reduces the rumble
greatly.

I suspect I need to replace the "Rubber Goods".  I see A-1 Jukebox sells the
Motor Coupler, Support Plug and Turn Table Drive grommets.

I see VG sells the following: "NEW! Seeburg rubber end motor mounts (rings)
Used on all Seeburg mech motors from M100A through SMC3. THESE ARE EXCELLENT
EXACT REPROS! (2 required) EACH $12.50"

Although I have never removed a Seeburg motor myself, I have read the
recommendation to replace the motor coupler and support plug.  Any
recommendation on the new "Rings"?   

Also, are the TT drive grommets difficult to replace?

As always, thanks for your input!

Sincerely, JP 

 


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 13:26:40 -0800
From: John Lee <nipper45 at adelphia.net>
Subject: [Jukebox-list] AMI C speaker connections, mirror
To: Jukebox mailing list <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Message-ID: <3.0.3.32.20040128132640.006df784 at pop.dc3.adelphia.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi:
	I just finished rebuilding the amp for my AMI C, and am not sure
which
screw terminals the cabinet speaker is supposed to connect to. The manual
only shows connection of remote speakers. By the ohmmeter it should be
either 1 and 7 or 2 and 6. 2 and 6 has more volume but a hollow sound, and
less highs. 1 and 7 sounds OK but still has a hint of the hollow
compress3ed sound (I think this may be normal as my brother's D80 has a
similar sound). Can anyone tell me which is correct?
	Alsom the upper mirror is missing. I have a template but need to
know how
thick the mirror is supposed to be? From the photos I've seen the mirror
appears to be silvered all over but light from the light box behind it
passes through toe outer 4 inches or so. Is this correct?
Thanks for your help.
John


------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 13:55:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Terry Houchins <terry75115 at yahoo.com>
Subject: [Jukebox-list] Rock-Ola 1428 coin machanism
To: Jukebox mailing list <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Message-ID: <20040128215504.76771.qmail at web12007.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

How can I tell if I have a correct coin mechanism for
my Rock-Ola 1428?
Is there a serial# to look for?

Thanks,
Terry





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------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 17:28:37 EST
From: JCAR41 at aol.com
Subject: [Jukebox-list] (no subject)
To: jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com
Message-ID: <33.43631c3e.2d499195 at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"

are the wurlitzer 1015 replicas that play vinyl .as the one on ebay at 
present [item3269521582]any good as im thinking of bidding on it but i dont
want to 
end up with some taiwan crap,,,,its up to£1750, surely u could get a 
secondhand one more time for that


------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 16:40:46 -0600
From: Ken In Texas <ken at pinballrebel.com>
Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] (no subject)
To: Jukebox mailing list <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Message-ID: <40183A6E.5090901 at pinballrebel.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

If it is a 1015 wurlitzer they are pretty much a copy of the CD box.

JCAR41 at aol.com wrote:

> are the wurlitzer 1015 replicas that play vinyl .as the one on ebay at 
> present [item3269521582]any good as im thinking of bidding on it but i
dont want to 
> end up with some taiwan crap,,,,its up to£1750, surely u could get a 
> secondhand one more time for that
> _______________________________________________
> Jukebox-list mailing list
> Jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com
> http://lists.netlojix.com/mailman/listinfo/jukebox-list
> 
> 

-- 
Ken In Texas
http://www.pinballrebel.com
Custom Pinball Cards, Jukeboxes, Drive In's

"Never ask a man if he's from Texas.
If he is, he'll tell you on his own.
If he ain't, no need to embarrass him."



------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 15:25:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Ron Rich <ronnnrich at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] Rock-Ola 1428 coin machanism
To: Jukebox mailing list <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Message-ID: <20040128232520.48322.qmail at web12208.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Does it work? Does it fit? If so, it's most likely either the right one or a
good sub--I think all the "1420"'s were the same--doubt if there is any
number on it.

Terry Houchins <terry75115 at yahoo.com> wrote:How can I tell if I have a
correct coin mechanism for
my Rock-Ola 1428?
Is there a serial# to look for?

Thanks,
Terry





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------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 23:28:29 -0000
From: "Phil Docker (jukedock) - Jukebox Legend"
	<jukedock at blueyonder.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] (no subject)
To: "Jukebox mailing list" <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Message-ID: <004701c3e5f6$6fc78c90$ed782452 at USER>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi - followed the number on ebay and it did not come up with a jukebox.
I am in the UK too.....
The only vinyl one I know of is the one more time, or if you are lucky you
may find a sound leisure vinyl bubbler.
None of the bubblers are taiwan crap mate - apart from those ones that they
sell in dixons - all of those are just a radio/cassette and a multiplay CD
player - nothing like a real jukebox and they charge £800 for a pile of
rubbish.
I own an NSM Nostalgia gold bubbler - which is CD - I am very happy with it.
The wurltizer one more times only hold 50 unless you change the magazine and
reprogramme it
So if you consider, 50 records, with B sides - half the B sides are probably
rubbish - that would give you 75 tracks.....
Why dont you go for a CD - and get 100 CDs (in NSM/Rowe amis and Rock olas)
or 70 CDs (in Sound leisure machines), you can burn your own discs with at
least 20 tracks on each - work that out - its a lot of songs - 2000+ on
mine.
For me worst sounding OMT CD is the Wurlitzer!  but thats only my
opinion......
I can get hold of a bubbler CD for you for a good price.
Email me direct if you wish !
I am in Birmingham UK.
Phil

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: JCAR41 at aol.com 
  To: jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 10:28 PM
  Subject: [Jukebox-list] (no subject)


  are the wurlitzer 1015 replicas that play vinyl .as the one on ebay at 
  present [item3269521582]any good as im thinking of bidding on it but i
dont want to 
  end up with some taiwan crap,,,,its up to£1750, surely u could get a 
  secondhand one more time for that
  _______________________________________________
  Jukebox-list mailing list
  Jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com
  http://lists.netlojix.com/mailman/listinfo/jukebox-list

------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 15:36:00 -0800 (PST)
From: Ron Rich <ronnnrich at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] Motor Rumble - Seeburg G
To: Jukebox mailing list <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Message-ID: <20040128233600.54288.qmail at web12207.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

JP, You figgured it out--rubbers insulate--( I tried to teach my kids that,
now they need to do a better job with their kids). The rings are for
"Bodine" brand motors, only, and they are good--Did you oil the top bearing
above the motor coupling--the very top "allen" screw should have a felt wick
in it, and oil all TT bearings. --It's not hard to pull the motor--If you
are nervous, contact me off list---Ron

"WHITE, JAMES P" <JWHITE3 at entergy.com> wrote:Hi Guys,
This machine has a lot of motor rumble through the speaker after the amp is
un-muted. I can grab the motor with my hand and it reduces the rumble
greatly.

I suspect I need to replace the "Rubber Goods". I see A-1 Jukebox sells the
Motor Coupler, Support Plug and Turn Table Drive grommets.

I see VG sells the following: "NEW! Seeburg rubber end motor mounts (rings)
Used on all Seeburg mech motors from M100A through SMC3. THESE ARE EXCELLENT
EXACT REPROS! (2 required) EACH $12.50"

Although I have never removed a Seeburg motor myself, I have read the
recommendation to replace the motor coupler and support plug. Any
recommendation on the new "Rings"? 

Also, are the TT drive grommets difficult to replace?

As always, thanks for your input!

Sincerely, JP 


_______________________________________________
Jukebox-list mailing list
Jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com
http://lists.netlojix.com/mailman/listinfo/jukebox-list


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------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 16:12:19 -0800
From: "don tutt" <dontutt at telus.net>
Subject: [Jukebox-list] 2300S Elect Selector 'F' solenoid
To: <Jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Message-ID: <001301c3e5fc$8f9c2480$c076ad8e at bc.hsia.telus.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

Well Ladies and Gentlemen!

Followed Jay's trick and experimented with many kinds of RC combinations to
lengthen the pulse on the TR-1 relay but it didn't fix the nasty combination
F-4.
Tried Lesley's diode trick. didn't help fix the F-4 bug.
The pin still will not pop-up for F-4.
Especially F-4.
E-4 and G-4 will pop AND THEN with either of these neighbouring pins up --
trying F-4 again causes F-4 pin to pop-up every time.  Go figure.
Other "F" combinations also do not pop-up tho there is a pecking motion from
the rocker, it just doesn't seem to be quite enough.
If I would need a new "F" solenoid who sells them?
Any ideas...?


------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 18:31:27 -0600
From: "mike" <atxguy at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] Rock-Ola 1428 coin machanism
To: "Jukebox mailing list" <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Message-ID: <00b201c3e5ff$3bde6e40$6400a8c0 at main1>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

I think there was a difference in those actually; the 1422 and -26 had the
clunky coin mech with the large wire levers. The 1428 was a better design
with the "chutes and ladders" switches. I have an original sitting in my
storage; can get a pic of it if you like. I have the manuals for the
1422-26-28 models and none document the design changes of the 1428 very
well.

Mike


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rich" <ronnnrich at yahoo.com>
To: "Jukebox mailing list" <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 5:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] Rock-Ola 1428 coin machanism


> Does it work? Does it fit? If so, it's most likely either the right one or
a good sub--I think all the "1420"'s were the same--doubt if there is any
number on it.
>
> Terry Houchins <terry75115 at yahoo.com> wrote:How can I tell if I have a
correct coin mechanism for
> my Rock-Ola 1428?
> Is there a serial# to look for?
>
> Thanks,
> Terry
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
> http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
> _______________________________________________
> Jukebox-list mailing list
> Jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com
> http://lists.netlojix.com/mailman/listinfo/jukebox-list
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
> _______________________________________________
> Jukebox-list mailing list
> Jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com
> http://lists.netlojix.com/mailman/listinfo/jukebox-list



------------------------------

Message: 11
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 18:48:05 -0600
From: "mike" <atxguy at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] (no subject)
To: "Jukebox mailing list" <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Message-ID: <00c201c3e601$8ed3d930$6400a8c0 at main1>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

same here, I get some statuette thingy from that item number.

Market can vary by your location but I have sold decent 50 CD Wurlitzer
OMT's here in Texas for $3800-$4200USD depending on their condition. (I will
have another nice OMT 50CD ready soon)  Have bought working wrecks with lots
of commercial use for $2000-$2500USD. I have never had a vinyl model but I
have seen them priced around $500-$800USD less than their CD counterparts

The Rockola and Rowe repro products have some better quality features.
Althought the Wurlitzer OMT may look more like the original, there is no
excuse for using cheap decorative plastic as a substitute for chrome plated
metal castings. It probably helps their bottom line but I would bet there is
some market share loss for building a cheaper quality box.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Docker (jukedock) - Jukebox Legend" <jukedock at blueyonder.co.uk>
To: "Jukebox mailing list" <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 5:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] (no subject)


Hi - followed the number on ebay and it did not come up with a jukebox.
I am in the UK too.....
The only vinyl one I know of is the one more time, or if you are lucky you
may find a sound leisure vinyl bubbler.
None of the bubblers are taiwan crap mate - apart from those ones that they
sell in dixons - all of those are just a radio/cassette and a multiplay CD
player - nothing like a real jukebox and they charge £800 for a pile of
rubbish.
I own an NSM Nostalgia gold bubbler - which is CD - I am very happy with it.
The wurltizer one more times only hold 50 unless you change the magazine and
reprogramme it
So if you consider, 50 records, with B sides - half the B sides are probably
rubbish - that would give you 75 tracks.....
Why dont you go for a CD - and get 100 CDs (in NSM/Rowe amis and Rock olas)
or 70 CDs (in Sound leisure machines), you can burn your own discs with at
least 20 tracks on each - work that out - its a lot of songs - 2000+ on
mine.
For me worst sounding OMT CD is the Wurlitzer!  but thats only my
opinion......
I can get hold of a bubbler CD for you for a good price.
Email me direct if you wish !
I am in Birmingham UK.
Phil

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: JCAR41 at aol.com
  To: jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com
  Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 10:28 PM
  Subject: [Jukebox-list] (no subject)


  are the wurlitzer 1015 replicas that play vinyl .as the one on ebay at
  present [item3269521582]any good as im thinking of bidding on it but i
dont want to
  end up with some taiwan crap,,,,its up to£1750, surely u could get a
  secondhand one more time for that
  _______________________________________________
  Jukebox-list mailing list
  Jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com
  http://lists.netlojix.com/mailman/listinfo/jukebox-list
_______________________________________________
Jukebox-list mailing list
Jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com
http://lists.netlojix.com/mailman/listinfo/jukebox-list



------------------------------

Message: 12
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 19:59:05 -0500
From: Carl Haines <chaines at anent.com>
Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] HF100R - slow turning motor question
To: Jukebox mailing list <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Message-ID: <40185AD9.3000604 at anent.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed



Jay Hennigan wrote:
> Jukebox lubricants have always been somewhat of a religious issue.
<snip>

Why is this?  After all the Seeburg recommended lubricant specs are 50 
years old.  Some things have improved since then.

> Universally regarded as bad:  WD-40, 3-in-1 household oil.  Although I
> have used a WD-40 bath as an aid to disassembling stuck Rock-Ola grippers,
> I would not recommend it ever for lubrication.

I know about WD40 first hand, but what is the deal with the household 
oil?  Is this a perpetuated myth, speculation based upon ingredients, or 
something else?  Anybody have first hand experience?

Carl Haines



------------------------------

Message: 13
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 20:08:43 -0800 (PST)
From: matt <ml_potter at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] Rock-Ola 1428 coin mechanism, more info
To: mike <atxguy at comcast.net>,	Jukebox mailing list
	<jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Message-ID: <20040129040843.78571.qmail at web12506.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hello,
  Regarding the 1428 coin mechanism, after the
rejector there is a die cast chute with spaces for up
to six micro switches, whose levers go through slots
in this assembly, and the coins flip these levers to
register credit.  This coin assembly plugs into a
horizontally mounted box on the inside of the front
door.  Originally had a black cover with a white
silkscreened schematic on it.  I know, as I made the
reproduction white decal for these several years ago
and have lots of these decals in stock (just in case
anyone should need them).  Anyway, after this credit
accumulator another cable heads around the door to the
rest of the guts.  If you have something that
resembles this, you probably have the right stuff.

  This switch style for these coin mechs are a little
tough to find but are the same ones as used on W1100
end of play trip lever, and on later models if I
remember around the W2600-2900 series.  Lots of other
junk used to use these also.

Hope this helps
Matt Potter   

__________________________________
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Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/


------------------------------

Message: 14
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 06:23:59 -0800 (PST)
From: Terry Houchins <terry75115 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] Rock-Ola 1428 coin mechanism, more info
To: ml_potter at yahoo.com, Jukebox mailing list
	<jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Message-ID: <20040129142359.99870.qmail at web12002.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Matt,
Thanks for the info.
I have the chute with switches and the solinoid box,
but not the coin rejector system above the chute.
At the present I have the juke on free play and am
wanting to put it back original.

I'm also missing something that directs the good coins
from the bottom of the chute into the coin compartment
box. 
I have about two inches of open space there before the
coins drop into the box.
What do I need?

Matt, I'd like a copy of that schematic, how much?
Thanks,
Terry






--- matt <ml_potter at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hello,
>   Regarding the 1428 coin mechanism, after the
> rejector there is a die cast chute with spaces for
> up
> to six micro switches, whose levers go through slots
> in this assembly, and the coins flip these levers to
> register credit.  This coin assembly plugs into a
> horizontally mounted box on the inside of the front
> door.  Originally had a black cover with a white
> silkscreened schematic on it.  I know, as I made the
> reproduction white decal for these several years ago
> and have lots of these decals in stock (just in case
> anyone should need them).  Anyway, after this credit
> accumulator another cable heads around the door to
> the
> rest of the guts.  If you have something that
> resembles this, you probably have the right stuff.
> 
>   This switch style for these coin mechs are a
> little
> tough to find but are the same ones as used on W1100
> end of play trip lever, and on later models if I
> remember around the W2600-2900 series.  Lots of
> other
> junk used to use these also.
> 
> Hope this helps
> Matt Potter   
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool.
> Try it!
> http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
> _______________________________________________
> Jukebox-list mailing list
> Jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com
>
http://lists.netlojix.com/mailman/listinfo/jukebox-list


__________________________________
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Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
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------------------------------

Message: 15
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 07:20:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Ron Rich <ronnnrich at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] HF100R - slow turning motor question
To: Jukebox mailing list <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Message-ID: <20040129152023.62138.qmail at web12203.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Carl, Very true about the age of the specs. In the late 60's Seeburg (and
Bodine) did a study of many types / brands of oils. All were found to
contain addtives (such as Teflon) and or other "impurities" described as
"wax". The result of the study produced the "Improved" Seeburg oil. The
"improvement" was to remove more (all ?) "wax" from the oil. It was found
that the wax was building up in the bearings, or cloging the pores of the
"oilite" bearings,  (thus causing the "slow motor" problem they were
having). It was also affirmed that a 20 wt oil was the best weight oil to
use, on their six month lubrication schedule.  The lighter 10 wt. would
dissipate too soon, and a 30 wt was too heavy. Ron

Carl Haines <chaines at anent.com> wrote:

Jay Hennigan wrote:
> Jukebox lubricants have always been somewhat of a religious issue.


Why is this? After all the Seeburg recommended lubricant specs are 50 
years old. Some things have improved since then.

> Universally regarded as bad: WD-40, 3-in-1 household oil. Although I
> have used a WD-40 bath as an aid to disassembling stuck Rock-Ola grippers,
> I would not recommend it ever for lubrication.

I know about WD40 first hand, but what is the deal with the household 
oil? Is this a perpetuated myth, speculation based upon ingredients, or 
something else? Anybody have first hand experience?

Carl Haines

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Jukebox-list mailing list
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 10:30:08 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time)
From: "BSA" <BSAKing at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] HF100R - slow turning motor question
To: <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Message-ID: <40192700.000004.00340 at RECROOM>
Content-Type: Text/Plain;  charset="iso-8859-1"

 just checked my 3-in-one here - it is marked as multi-purpose, so I am off
to see about "motor oil". And ... it is made by WD-40. 

And I did find the graphite cup grease locally so Ron you should be able to
find it NP if can do so up here in the boonies. About $22/can Cdn or ~ $15
or so USD I guess. I like the idea of 'rejuvenating it' with a bit of oil. I
don't think lubriplate would work that way..

So - now I have to put my lubriplate (that I finally located) into the 
emergency stash" section.... :(

cheers.
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: Jukebox mailing list
Date: 01/29/04 10:19:43
To: Jukebox mailing list
Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] HF100R - slow turning motor question
 
Carl, Very true about the age of the specs. In the late 60's Seeburg (and
Bodine) did a study of many types / brands of oils. All were found to
contain addtives (such as Teflon) and or other "impurities" described as 
wax". The result of the study produced the "Improved" Seeburg oil. The 
improvement" was to remove more (all ?) "wax" from the oil. It was found
that the wax was building up in the bearings, or cloging the pores of the 
oilite" bearings, (thus causing the "slow motor" problem they were having).
It was also affirmed that a 20 wt oil was the best weight oil to use, on
their six month lubrication schedule. The lighter 10 wt. would dissipate too
soon, and a 30 wt was too heavy. Ron
 
Carl Haines <chaines at anent.com> wrote:
 
Jay Hennigan wrote:
> Jukebox lubricants have always been somewhat of a religious issue.
 
 
Why is this? After all the Seeburg recommended lubricant specs are 50
years old. Some things have improved since then.
 
> Universally regarded as bad: WD-40, 3-in-1 household oil. Although I
> have used a WD-40 bath as an aid to disassembling stuck Rock-Ola grippers,
> I would not recommend it ever for lubrication.
 
I know about WD40 first hand, but what is the deal with the household
oil? Is this a perpetuated myth, speculation based upon ingredients, or
something else? Anybody have first hand experience?
 
Carl Haines
 
_______________________________________________
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Jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com
http://lists.netlojix.com/mailman/listinfo/jukebox-list
 
 
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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 12:57:29 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time)
From: "BSA" <BSAKing at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] HF100R - slow turning motor question
To: <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Message-ID: <40194989.000001.01264 at RECROOM>
Content-Type: Text/Plain;  charset="iso-8859-1"

Well - as promised- I did find 3-in-one motor oil right next to the
multipurpose oil. Now armed with cup grease and 3-in-one, I have to find a
way to get my usc-2 to select and play a song.....!
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: BSA
Date: 01/29/04 10:30:08
To: jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com
Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] HF100R - slow turning motor question
 
just checked my 3-in-one here - it is marked as multi-purpose, so I am off
to see about "motor oil". And ... it is made by WD-40.
 
And I did find the graphite cup grease locally so Ron you should be able to
find it NP if can do so up here in the boonies. About $22/can Cdn or ~ $15
or so USD I guess. I like the idea of 'rejuvenating it' with a bit of oil. I
don't think lubriplate would work that way..
 
So - now I have to put my lubriplate (that I finally located) into the
emergency stash" section.... :(
 
cheers.
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: Jukebox mailing list
Date: 01/29/04 10:19:43
To: Jukebox mailing list
Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] HF100R - slow turning motor question
 
Carl, Very true about the age of the specs. In the late 60's Seeburg (and
Bodine) did a study of many types / brands of oils. All were found to
contain addtives (such as Teflon) and or other "impurities" described as
wax". The result of the study produced the "Improved" Seeburg oil. The
improvement" was to remove more (all ?) "wax" from the oil. It was found
that the wax was building up in the bearings, or cloging the pores of the
oilite" bearings, (thus causing the "slow motor" problem they were having).
It was also affirmed that a 20 wt oil was the best weight oil to use, on
their six month lubrication schedule. The lighter 10 wt. would dissipate too
soon, and a 30 wt was too heavy. Ron
 
Carl Haines <chaines at anent.com> wrote:
 
Jay Hennigan wrote:
> Jukebox lubricants have always been somewhat of a religious issue.
 
 
Why is this? After all the Seeburg recommended lubricant specs are 50
years old. Some things have improved since then.
 
> Universally regarded as bad: WD-40, 3-in-1 household oil. Although I
> have used a WD-40 bath as an aid to disassembling stuck Rock-Ola grippers,
> I would not recommend it ever for lubrication.
 
I know about WD40 first hand, but what is the deal with the household
oil? Is this a perpetuated myth, speculation based upon ingredients, or
something else? Anybody have first hand experience?
 
Carl Haines
 
_______________________________________________
Jukebox-list mailing list
Jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com
http://lists.netlojix.com/mailman/listinfo/jukebox-list
 
 
---------------------------------
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Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
_______________________________________________
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------------------------------

Message: 18
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 19:20:56 -0000
From: "Phil Docker (jukedock) - Jukebox Legend"
	<jukedock at blueyonder.co.uk>
Subject: [Jukebox-list] NSM ES5 technology
To: <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Message-ID: <01ad01c3e69d$0566c120$ed782452 at USER>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

Does anyone know how to bypass the AGC or ALC whichever it is called - which
apparantly balances all the volume levels from CD to CD.

I do not need this feature, and for instance, when a song starts with a loud
say drum beat - it will be loud and then fade down after a second or so....

I normalise all my CDs to prevent an AGC to be used.....   I do not have a
circuit diagram for an ES5 backboard - can anyone help me to bypass this
circuit.

Cheers
Phil
UK

------------------------------

Message: 19
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 20:54:11 +0100
From: "Roy Kleijn" <roy at 01datacopy.nl>
Subject: [Jukebox-list] strange
To: <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Message-ID: <BHEHJAKFHNBBLGBCNKAPCEDICBAA.roy at 01datacopy.nl>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

Hello to everybody from a new member,


A friend gave me a seeburg solenoid-drum type SD24-1Z for my seeburg
classic,
but this type of drum is not in the books i got. Compared with the 2 types
of solenoid-drums in my books this is a strange looking thing.
The thing is that i don't have a clue how to fit this on the mechanism.
Does anyone know how to fit this solenoid drum?

The amplifier in this machine is a master control station type MCS25-1,
i know that's not the original one, but i think i can combine this amplifier
with the solenoid drum when i can get a female 27 contact socket,
but i'm not very sure can anyone tell me if my guess is true?

thanks for reading,

Roy kleijn




------------------------------

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End of Jukebox-list Digest, Vol 6, Issue 29
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