[Jukebox-list] Seeburg Switch Contacts

[Ron Rich]

Bob,
  You have answered your own question--you can "set" all the toroid's with a battery---I usually just wash the keyboard with hot sudsy ammonia and water (remove the latch bar solenoid first). I try not to do any "tweaking", as I find that it does not last, and in my opinion makes matters no better. As far as I know, the contacts are silver plated. I have in "worst cases", taken the switch bank apart and cleaned the slider portions with a "Dremmel" type tool. I know people who do that as a matter of course.  Spray cleaners that leave anything on the contacts are absolutely going to give you "multiple selection" problems down the road.
  Question for you---what do you mean when you say "--tried to play every position--" ? Either it will play each and every one, or you still have a read-out/trip problem.
  Ron Rich
   
   
   
  
"Bob E." <bobe at halted.com> wrote:
  I'm still ironing the kinks out of this Seeburg DS-160, it's having
selection problems in the write-in side of things. I did the battery trick
and it tried to play every postion, so the read-out side seems to work OK
(and it was good for giving the recently-lubed mechanism a workout, too!).

I have the keyboard switch assembly (TES-168, Code A) out on the table, and
I see that it has problems with a couple of left-bank letter switches (A -
K). As those of you who have worked on these know, when the switches are
out, there is a daisy-chain of contact from one switch to the next right
down the line, when you press a button it interrupts the chain at that point
and connects to the normally-open contact for that switch position. You can
see that if there is a problem with the "pass-along" contacts, the switches
downstream will all be dead. I have a couple of these that are giving problems.

My question is, just how much voltage and current is being switched here?
If there is a circuit problem, is it possible that one of these switch
contacts will get "cooked"? I have two that have darkened metal on the
contacts, and they seem to not take well to being tweaked into a position to
make better contact. I don't know how much current it takes to "set" a
toroid, but it sure doesn't seem like it would be enough to darken and
remove the springiness from a slide-switch contact, does it? I may need to
look into getting another switch-bank from somewhere...

--Bob
=======================================================================
Bob Ellingson bobe at halted.com
Halted Specialties Co., Inc. http://www.halted.com
3500 Ryder St. (408) 732-1573
Santa Clara, Calif. 95051 USA (408) 732-6428 (FAX)

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