[Jukebox-list] "Clips"-was-Cartridge Installation :Can't Get it RIGHT?

[wbabbott at cox.net]

Hello All, I've read everyone's input on the wiring of stereo cartridet to my mono Rockola 1438 using new shielded cable. I followed instructions and peeled back the insulation on the the cable and found the very nice braided metal shield. I took four gold clips and jumpered two together for the cardtridge ground pins and jumpered the other two for connection to input pins. I used rubber spaghetti to insulate the jumpers leaving a metal loop between each to solder to the cable input lead and shielding. The other end of the cable I soldered on a new RCA plug... I assumed the input is soldered to the core of the jack, and the shielding  soldered to the small leg that wraps around shielding on the inner edge of the plug. I installed it all turned on the 1438 and WHOOLA... NO SOUND!! I could hear the music coming from the needle passing over the record, but the signal is not getting to the amp. Must have done something wrong. After spending all afternoon on this, I'm stopping till Sunday for a fresh look.... Any other considerations..?
Thanks All for you input....
Britt

---- Jay Hennigan <jay at west.net> wrote: 
> Don Tutt wrote:
> > Hello Britt
> > 
> > Try your idea of wrapping the ground wire around the signal wire.
> > Several difficulties might result.
> > If the combination of wires is too heavy you might have tracking 
> > problems. If too stiff you might have trip switch problems.
> > Because wrapping a ground wire around the signal wire does not fully 
> > protect the signal wire from electromagnetic fields, I would suspect you 
> > will notice an increased hum .
> > 
> > Trouble in any of these areas might mean you should replace the wiring 
> > with new sheilded wire that is light enough and provides easier ability 
> > to solder to the sheath.
> > 
> > Do you understand how to properly prepare the end of a sheilded cable 
> > for soldering to signal wire and to sheild...?
> 
> Carefully strip back about an inch of the outer jacket without nicking 
> the shield.  You can delicately cut a ring around the jacket with an 
> X-acto knife or slit it lengthwise if needed.
> 
> The shield will be one of two types.  It may be braided forming a 
> diamond pattern or just fine wires in a spiral.
> 
> If the diamond pattern, bend the wire in a U right past where you 
> removed the shield.  Pick an opening in the braided shield with a 
> toothpick and poke the insulated center wire through it.
> 
> If a spiral, just move the insulated center wire to one side and twist 
> the shield wires together.
> 
> In either case, at this point you should have a Y, with the legs of the 
> Y being the shield and the insulated center conductor.
> 
> Wrap a rubber band around the handles of a small pair of long-nose 
> pliers to hold the jaws closed when you let go.  Clamp this on the 
> shield right near the point where it enters the jacket.  This is to act 
> as a heat-sink so the heat of soldering doesn't melt things.  It also 
> helps to hold things in place.
> 
> Solder one clip to the shield on the free end of the pliers.
> 
> Strip the center conductor and solder another clip to it.
> 
> A small length of heat-shrink tubing can help stabilize the joints.
> 
> For stereo, make a short jumper with two clips and a 1/2 inch piece of 
> wire.
> 
> Plug the shield onto the LG pin.  Jumper the L and RG pins with the 
> jumper-clip wire.  Plug the center conductor pin onto the R pin.
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Jay Hennigan - CCIE #7880 - Network Engineering - jay at impulse.net
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