[Jukebox-list] "Clips"-was-Cartridge Installation: ALSO ?

wbabbott at cox.net wbabbott at cox.net
Fri Dec 29 14:37:05 PST 2006


ALSO, the new cardtridge I'm installing  in the 1438 is a P132D as listed in Ebay Item 110073593922 This cartridge has four prongs. I was told the bottom prongs close together are GROUND and the two upper spaced further apart are input.
Let me know if I got it reversed....
Britt
---- Jay Hennigan <jay at west.net> wrote: 
> Don Tutt wrote:
> > Hello Britt
> > 
> > Try your idea of wrapping the ground wire around the signal wire.
> > Several difficulties might result.
> > If the combination of wires is too heavy you might have tracking 
> > problems. If too stiff you might have trip switch problems.
> > Because wrapping a ground wire around the signal wire does not fully 
> > protect the signal wire from electromagnetic fields, I would suspect you 
> > will notice an increased hum .
> > 
> > Trouble in any of these areas might mean you should replace the wiring 
> > with new sheilded wire that is light enough and provides easier ability 
> > to solder to the sheath.
> > 
> > Do you understand how to properly prepare the end of a sheilded cable 
> > for soldering to signal wire and to sheild...?
> 
> Carefully strip back about an inch of the outer jacket without nicking 
> the shield.  You can delicately cut a ring around the jacket with an 
> X-acto knife or slit it lengthwise if needed.
> 
> The shield will be one of two types.  It may be braided forming a 
> diamond pattern or just fine wires in a spiral.
> 
> If the diamond pattern, bend the wire in a U right past where you 
> removed the shield.  Pick an opening in the braided shield with a 
> toothpick and poke the insulated center wire through it.
> 
> If a spiral, just move the insulated center wire to one side and twist 
> the shield wires together.
> 
> In either case, at this point you should have a Y, with the legs of the 
> Y being the shield and the insulated center conductor.
> 
> Wrap a rubber band around the handles of a small pair of long-nose 
> pliers to hold the jaws closed when you let go.  Clamp this on the 
> shield right near the point where it enters the jacket.  This is to act 
> as a heat-sink so the heat of soldering doesn't melt things.  It also 
> helps to hold things in place.
> 
> Solder one clip to the shield on the free end of the pliers.
> 
> Strip the center conductor and solder another clip to it.
> 
> A small length of heat-shrink tubing can help stabilize the joints.
> 
> For stereo, make a short jumper with two clips and a 1/2 inch piece of 
> wire.
> 
> Plug the shield onto the LG pin.  Jumper the L and RG pins with the 
> jumper-clip wire.  Plug the center conductor pin onto the R pin.
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Jay Hennigan - CCIE #7880 - Network Engineering - jay at impulse.net
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