[Jukebox-list] "Clips"- !!!!EUREKA !!!!

[wbabbott at cox.net]

I HAVE SOUND !! Took the advice and removed the cable and checked input to ground and found I had a circuit from metal braid to input cord. When I soldered the metal braid to the RCA Jack and to my jumper at the cartridge end, I soldered direct to braid which "as warned" burned right thru to the insulation to the inner cord shorting the braid to the inner input cord! I re-wired by using Jay's direction of pulling diamond braid back off inner insulation twisting it and used a pair of surgical hemostats to hold and use as heat sink to keep heat from inner insulation while soldering.
Re-installed being careful that all clips to the cartridge were insulated. Great sound came from the P132D cartridge!! 
One other item.... does it matter which of the flip needles you use on the P132D ??? Now that the sound works it's on to the next problem with this 1438 Juke... the coin and selection issues. This juke is playing one record after the next without stopping unless I cut it off using the switch next to the the record load switch on the control box.
Thanks to all you guys for your very accurate advice... Ron, Jay, Bob, Don, Wes, and James!!! You all have a Happy and Prosperous New Year and keep on Juk'in!!
Britt
Chesapeake, VA
---- Jay Hennigan <jay at west.net> wrote: 
> Don Tutt wrote:
> > Hello Britt
> > 
> > Try your idea of wrapping the ground wire around the signal wire.
> > Several difficulties might result.
> > If the combination of wires is too heavy you might have tracking 
> > problems. If too stiff you might have trip switch problems.
> > Because wrapping a ground wire around the signal wire does not fully 
> > protect the signal wire from electromagnetic fields, I would suspect you 
> > will notice an increased hum .
> > 
> > Trouble in any of these areas might mean you should replace the wiring 
> > with new sheilded wire that is light enough and provides easier ability 
> > to solder to the sheath.
> > 
> > Do you understand how to properly prepare the end of a sheilded cable 
> > for soldering to signal wire and to sheild...?
> 
> Carefully strip back about an inch of the outer jacket without nicking 
> the shield.  You can delicately cut a ring around the jacket with an 
> X-acto knife or slit it lengthwise if needed.
> 
> The shield will be one of two types.  It may be braided forming a 
> diamond pattern or just fine wires in a spiral.
> 
> If the diamond pattern, bend the wire in a U right past where you 
> removed the shield.  Pick an opening in the braided shield with a 
> toothpick and poke the insulated center wire through it.
> 
> If a spiral, just move the insulated center wire to one side and twist 
> the shield wires together.
> 
> In either case, at this point you should have a Y, with the legs of the 
> Y being the shield and the insulated center conductor.
> 
> Wrap a rubber band around the handles of a small pair of long-nose 
> pliers to hold the jaws closed when you let go.  Clamp this on the 
> shield right near the point where it enters the jacket.  This is to act 
> as a heat-sink so the heat of soldering doesn't melt things.  It also 
> helps to hold things in place.
> 
> Solder one clip to the shield on the free end of the pliers.
> 
> Strip the center conductor and solder another clip to it.
> 
> A small length of heat-shrink tubing can help stabilize the joints.
> 
> For stereo, make a short jumper with two clips and a 1/2 inch piece of 
> wire.
> 
> Plug the shield onto the LG pin.  Jumper the L and RG pins with the 
> jumper-clip wire.  Plug the center conductor pin onto the R pin.
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Jay Hennigan - CCIE #7880 - Network Engineering - jay at impulse.net
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