[Jukebox-list] some Wurly 2200 tech questions

Rick Force flashbk13 at hotmail.com
Sat Jul 1 11:39:39 PDT 2006


Thank you Wes and Jay for the tips, I'll check into it.  Rick.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Wesley Dean<mailto:wesleydean at cox.net> 
  To: Jukebox mailing list<mailto:jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com> 
  Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2006 7:57 AM
  Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] some Wurly 2200 tech questions


      Rick, its easy to check if the trouble is in the remote volume wiring. 
  Just re-install the jumper plug and see what happens.  The reason that the 
  147 is different is the cancel circuit requires three wires that are in the 
  motor circuit. A relay is used to prevent the motor circuit from having to 
  go all the way to the cancel switch that may be some distance away and would 
  have too much voltage drop for the motor to operate efficiently. I believe 
  its a little late to question the Wurlitzer engineer's motives. Wes
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Rick Force" <flashbk13 at hotmail.com<mailto:flashbk13 at hotmail.com>>
  To: "juke list" <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com<mailto:jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>>
  Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2006 5:50 AM
  Subject: [Jukebox-list] some Wurly 2200 tech questions


  Hi all,
  I have some tech questions for my 1958 Wurlitzer 2200. First off, there is a 
  constant hum when the mute relay drops out. Doesn't change much according to 
  volume, unless turned way up (then it squeals/ goes into feedback). It's not 
  mechanical vibration as I selected an empty slot and the hum was there with 
  the tone arm just suspended in air. Amp has been rebuilt (maybe something 
  missed?) and has been modified to use a Wurlitzer 2700 series ceramic stereo 
  cartridge (wired in mono). I just had a thought as I write this, could a 
  tone arm wire be touching the arm (I believe its metal and not plastic...the 
  arm is from a 3000). I'll have to check that.
     The next question is concerning the Wurlitzer #147 remote for this juke. 
  The juke sounds great (except that hum), but as soon as that original remote 
  is plugged into the remote socket of the 132 amp, the sound is too loud 
  (can't even turn it all the way down, can still hear the music) and the 
  sound quality is bad (not just distorted, but lack of highs...only bass and 
  some mid range). I understand this is a miss match somehow (as the remote is 
  set for the cobra circuit). How do I get that remote to work with the new 
  mods? Warren Rowe who did the mods, said all mods were at the front end of 
  the amp (the cobra circuit) and the back end (original volume control) was 
  not touched. I need this remote as I need to put the juke in the corner and 
  can't get to the back easily. My guess is that nothing needs to be done to 
  the amp, but to the components in that remote. Why couldn't Wurlitzer just 
  have the volume pot and cancel button in that 147 remote without any extra 
  circuitry like Seeburg and AMI/Rowe? The 147 seem too complicated for what 
  it does (several resistors and caps connected to the pot terminals). You 
  would think that all that could be removed and just connect directly to the 
  pot (they use a double ganged pot...looks like a stereo pot, why would they 
  do this in a mono juke?). Thank you, Rick.
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