[Jukebox-list] Seeburg 222 amp fixed.Man it sounds good!

[Karl]

I've found that my soldering setup with interchangeable tips (I won't
specify a brand) works well for this type work because I can install a
fairly pointed tip with a bit of a curve to it and after the old solder
heats up thoroghly (seems to take longer than expected and I suspect solder
melting temps were higher back in the day) I can use the tip itself to pry
the wound, twisted or bent wires loose while keeping the solder hot. I can
get the job done quicker that way and reduce chances of overheating other
components and close-by insulating materials as happens sometimes when
additional heating time is required when using needle-nose pliers,
screwdrivers, and the like. Lots of people don't realize that any time heat
is applied, heat is dissipating throughout the work even if something (such
as a dirty tip) is preventing the solder from melting.

Just another way of doing it.

Karl
Columbus Coin-Op Shop
2061 S. Lumpkin Rd
Columbus, GA 31903
Shop (706) 507-2963
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don" <dontutt at telus.net>
To: "Jukebox mailing list" <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 12:32 AM
Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] Seeburg 222 amp fixed.Man it sounds good!


>
>
> > At 01:06 AM 7/1/06 EDT, you wrote:
> >>I ended up changing all the resistors around the final 12 AX7s and the
2
> >>470k feeding the -35 to the 6973s.Most were all the way on the high  end
> >>of
> > 10%
> >>tolerance,some open some really high.Whew  those resistors are  fun to
> >>change.
>
> I have found they are easier to change in this way:  heat the solder; when
> molten stick the point of an exacto blade into the mess of wires,
including
> the one that may be from your resistor, or cap; continually twist the
blade
> to loosen the wires; use the exacto point to tease the resistor's wire off
> the binding post or tube pin.....  usually the exacto tip will snap off
and
> that is perfect because you are left with a stouter blade that will
> withstand the torquing of the wires.  If you want a point again just grind
> the back edge of the blade til you have a stouter blade with a bit of a
> point.   Works great!
>
> >>Was an evening project for a few evenings with maybe a half hour  to an
> >>hour's
> >>time to work on it.No lead splicing done here as the caps were.I
> >>unsoldered
> >>each one and reinstalled the replacement exactly as the original was
with
> >>the
> >>leads crimped on the tube pins and wrapped around the  terminals as
> >>original.Takes longer but it sure looks better. The  result:I think this
> > 222 would give
> >>my Rockola 490-1 a run for the money  now.The sound is loud and clear
with
> >>even more bass than before.It doesn't even  distort when turned all the
> >>way
> > up as
> >>it did before.And the static noise must  have been caused by the
> >>resistors.Nothing wrong with the original preamp  transistors.
>
> >
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