[Jukebox-list] Missing part of Wurlitzer 3700 Service Manual - It finally plays a record :)

[Ron Rich]

That is a "standard" Microswitch (a brand name--other companies make replacements also). You can check the operation of those switches as follows:
  Dis-connect all wires, and use an "anolog" (dial) type meter. Using both the "x-1" and the "x-10" scale, (in other words, you must do everything twice), connect one lead to the common. Connect the other lead to the NC. SLOWLY push the actuator in, while watching the meter, to the point where the switch "clicks". The meter must not move (and should show near zereo resistance). Continue to push the actuator in as far as it will go, the meter should have shown "open" all the way "in", past the "click". If good, connect the leads to the common, and the NO contact. The meter should show near zero again. Push the actuator in till it clicks--at the click the meter should show near zero (no more then two ohms--if the meter was "zero'd") At the click, meter should show open. Continue pushing in, SLOWLY, meter must stay open. The important parts are, "slowly", and, just prior to the click in either direction, watching the meter. If the meter "jumps" around in either direction, the
 switch IS bad. Also, of course, if one section is not "making" when it should.
  That switch, if a genuine Microswitch brand switch, will have their part number written on it's side. If you feel the need to replace it with the genuine switch, search the net for the Microswitch site (now a division of Honeywell). If not, replacements are available at any electronics store-even Radio Shack may have something you can use !! 
  Ron Rich

Gregor Anich <blight at blight.eu.org> wrote:
  
Yes. The solenoid gets current as soon as the READOUT SWITCH #1 hits a latch 
pin from the selection accumulator and until that switch goes back.
The switch goes back when the latch pin is cancelled by the cancel magnet.
The latch pin is (or should be) cancelled as soon as the gripper puts the disk 
onto the turntable.

Now there's two possible things which could have happened I think:
1) The gripper arm somehow got stuck, and the latch pin was not cancelled soon 
enough to prevent the solenoid from melting. I found some pieces of a vinyl 
record around the gripper... ;)
2) One of the "side 1 switches" (which are actuated by the side 1 solenoid) is 
not 100% ok - it could cause the wrong cancel solenoid to get current thus 
the latch pin is not cancelled and the solenoid not switched off.

Does anybody know where to get those switches?
The manual lists it as part no. 128344 on Page 39C ("50. Switch (2)")

Thanks,
greg
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