[Jukebox-list] Seeburg SS-160 lid tweaked and other questions

Jeremy Agema jeremy at dwave.net
Wed Jan 10 04:03:31 PST 2007


Correct you are!

I looked on my shelf and I have two amps there, one from my PFEAU and one 
from my SS-160. The PFEAU is a TSA 4 and the one from my SS-160 is a TSA 5 
code C. I should have checked first, that's what I get for using my memory!

I agree with you on the TSA 6 also. For me it is easier to work on with it's 
circuit boards. And I like the sound quality.

Thanks
Jeremy Agema


On Tue, 9 Jan 2007 16:43:58 -0800 (PST), Ron Rich wrote
> Jeremy,
>   The SS-160 should have a TSA-5, not  a 4. And hopefully a "Code C" 
> TSA-5, as there were some problems in the Code A and B units. the 
> TSA-6 would be much better than the TSA-4, in my opinion. Ron Rich
> 
> Jeremy Agema <jeremy at dwave.net> wrote:
>   Ron, I just love the way your coworker "adjusted" the lid. I also 
> didn't know there were factory revisions on the brackets.
> 
> Jay, my SS160 was/is the same way. I have tried using a clamp by the 
> grill above the title display to squeeze the triangular gap for a 
> couple of days. I also disconnected the helper springs. This has 
> helped some.
> 
> As far as the display motor goes I found the company that bought out 
> the original maker of the motor. They were happy to send me a 
> replacement but after I ordered it I found that www.jukeboxusa.com 
> has them #33-004 $65. It would have been a bit cheaper for me to use 
> jukebox usa.
> 
> As a side note I messed up on my order from that manufacturer- the 
> shaft was a bit too long so I had to cut it down and redrill the 
> hole for the retaining pin. Live and learn I guess.
> 
> I love my SS-160. I have a pair of UCS1 speakers hooked to it and I 
> am using a tsa6 amp (I still need to rebuild the original tsa4). It 
> sounds great. I also (per Ron's tip) replaced the original red tone 
> arm with a newer one.
> 
> Jeremy Agema
> 
> On Tue, 9 Jan 2007 00:57:31 -0800 (PST), Ron Rich wrote
> > Tony--you can use this or any part of it for the book, if you like--Ron
> > 
> > Jay,
> > The is very common on that model. The early pot metal castings 
> > bent, the later ("improved") ones split, or maybe it was the other 
> > way 'round. We had our own method of "fixing" them. It was a great 
> > big man, with a rather large stomach--he would use that stomach to 
> > "reform" the casting by reaching over the top of the juke and 
> > appling pressure with his stomach to the leading edge of the lid-
> > -(He was truly a giant of a man--about 6'5" and 400lbs. And strong 
> > enough to pick me up (about 165lbs) and throw me into a large trash 
> > bin once, when I P'd him off). And yes--they were a royal pain to 
> > change--I must have done a couple hundred of them--The last version 
> > (there may have been as many as 5 different "improvements" made) of 
> > the castings were filled with some type of an epoxy filler and added 
> > angle brackets--don't think I ever saw one of the last type fail. 
> > As for the gearbox, I never took one apart, just stuck a new one in--
> > -but I think I would try repairs today--it's a "110 VAC" motor. Ron 
> > Rich
> > 
> > Jay Hennigan wrote:
> > Just looked at a neighbor's SS160 yesterday. The machine needs the 
> > usual going-over that one would expect for a Seeburg that has been 
> > neglected for a long time.
> > 
> > One odd thing. The main lid containing the title strips, etc. is 
> > somehow out of true. When you attempt to close it, the bottom 
> > corners of the title strip holders strike the front escutcheon 
> > holding the selection buttons, as if the lid assembly is too long. 
> > You can get it closed with some persuasion, but then there is a 
> > triangular gap at the back upright portion where the black fluted 
> > speaker grille assembly abuts the upright wood sides of the juke.
> > 
> > It looks like the lid assembly has been bent at an obtuse angle 
> > where it meets the back/bottom corner of the frame. But, the 
> > material there looks like a casting and it isn't distorted or 
> > cracked. The guy has a manual on order but I can't see how this 
> > could have happened without some rather obvious damage, and there 
> > isn't any. It just doesn't fit right. Any suggestions? Does this 
> > come apart and is the angle adjustable? Removing it as an assembly 
> > doesn't look like a lot of fun, and I don't want to leave it as is 
> > because I can guarantee the title strip holders will be damaged 
> > shortly if it stays this way.
> > 
> > Also, the top animation motor was disconnected long ago, as it 
> > and/or the gearbox is noisy and stubborn. Are replacements available 
> > or can this one be serviced?
> > 
> > --
> > Jay Hennigan - CCIE #7880 - Network Engineering - jay at impulse.net
> > Impulse Internet Service - http://www.impulse.net/
> > Your local telephone and internet company - 805 884-6323 - WB6RDV
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