[Jukebox-list] AMI TI-1 amp rebuild
dave.halford at telent.com
dave.halford at telent.com
Mon Jan 29 06:33:34 PST 2007
Don
You can save all that filing and sanding if you grease/wax a piece of
glass, then press the epoxy end onto it, wipe away the excess, check there
are no voids in the epoxy by looking through the glass. Leave till set; you
get a nice shiney top with no effort.
Easy.
Dave H
"Don" <dontutt at telus.net>
Sent by: To: "Jukebox mailing list" <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
jukebox-list-bounces at lists.n cc:
etlojix.com Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] AMI TI-1 amp rebuild
27/01/2007 07:12
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OOPS had to add a little bit at end of my comments...
> Further to Jay's technical comment I would add that if you are
> willling..... you can pop the TOP off the cans, drill and scrape out the
> contents, remove the 3 or 4 terminals at the bottom, clean up the inside
> walls of the can..... then install as many new electrolytics inside the
> can as will fit. Run their leads out the bottom thru the holes left after
> removing the old terminals. Leave the lead wire for each cap long enough
> to reach new tie points that you'll have to make. Of course you must
> remove the can to do this. Before putting back you mix some two part
epoxy
> spread a puddle of it on flat wax paper and set the rebuild electro can
> upside down in the puddle. Next evening come back trim off excess. Spray
> paint can top silver.... et voila, as you can see in the following
> picture.... its is hard to tell a cap craniectomy was performed... :-)
> These two caps only have one electro apiece, inside as you can tell from
> only a black (NEG) and red (POS) wire protruding.
>
> http://www.donsradiomuseum.com/images/TonyRogers6R631-02.jpg
>
> PS. The electros in above picture have just come off the wax paper. The
> cured epoxy now needs to be filed, sanded and painted. If the can has a
> little groove part way down the side, from the top, I use a copper pipe
> cutter as a "can" opener. Almost impossible to tell anything was done
> when I finish...... also, I lay a little fiberglass mesh cloth in the
> epoxy resin for extra strength.
>
> Cheers,
> Don
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jay Hennigan" <jay at west.net>
> To: "Jukebox mailing list" <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
> Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 12:06 PM
> Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] AMI TI-1 amp rebuild
>
>
>> bakerrj2 wrote:
>>> I am in the process of rebuilding the amp of my TI-1. All bad
resistors
>>> and diodes have been replaced and am currently replacing the caps from
a
>>> kit that I got from Vern Tisdale. (Thanks Vern for lableing each cap
>>> per the schematic.) Replacing the caps is pretty straight forward
>>> except when it comes to the "can" type filter caps. I would like to
>>> leave the old "cans" in place for appearance purposes and install the
>>> new caps below the chassis. The problem is that there are other
>>> terminals besides the caps pos. and neg. leads attached to the existing
>>> caps that I am unsure what to do with. They don't seem to appear on
the
>>> schematic.
>>> Can I attach the new caps to the existing terminals or should I
>>> install new terminal strips and move the pos. and neg. leads to these
>>> strips? If so will the other attachment points have to be moved as
>>> well?
>>>
>>> As you can tell from the above question, I am a rank rookie in this
>>> endeavor. Any help offered will be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> The can style capacitors often contain several capacitors within the one
>> can assembly. The negative for all the caps is the can itself,
connected
>> to the four (three for the smaller cans) twisted lugs around the outer
>> diameter that hold the can in place. This is *USUALLY* chassis ground,
>> unless the can is mounted on a fiber insulating baseplate.
>>
>> The positive terminal(s) are in the center. The capacitors within the
>> can may have different values, so it is important to match the
>> replacement caps to the correct section. You can do this by tracing the
>> wires and matching to the schematic, and also by carefully examining the
>> base of the can and the markings on the can itself.
>>
>> The positive terminals protrude from a fiber insulator at the bottom of
>> the can. There will be a shape punched out of the insulator for some of
>> the terminals, either no punch, a triangle, a square, or a "D" shape.
The
>> printed markings on the can will indicate the value associated with each
>> symbol.
>>
>> On a multi-section capacitor, the schematic will use a letter suffix to
>> denote the sections. So a single can may have four capacitor symbols on
>> the schematic, like C401A, C401B, C401C, C401D. This means that you may
>> use up to four individual replacement capacitors to replace one can.
>> Vern's parts are probably labeled with the complete schematic designator
>> including the suffix letter.
>>
>> You will need to remove all of the wiring from each non-grounded
terminal
>> on the existing can and relocate it to a terminal strip. Leaving the old
>> capacitor connected to the circuit is asking for trouble. It's
certainly
>> OK to leave it in place physically for cosmetics.
>>
>> --
>> Jay Hennigan - CCIE #7880 - Network Engineering - jay at impulse.net
>> Impulse Internet Service - http://www.impulse.net/
>> Your local telephone and internet company - 805 884-6323 - WB6RDV
>> _______________________________________________
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>
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