[Jukebox-list] Seeburg C not cancelling pins - A side only

[Aaron's Email]

This is great guys and makes perfect sense but I have a few questions.The
way you describe it Wes, it seems more of a mechanical problem rather than
electrical. And Ron, I tried adjusting the C and SC switch contacts before I
wrote my original post. What happened was that the switch contacts failed to
open after the initial push was made and the coil wound up being energized
constantly! That was obiously a mistake, so I backed off the adjustment to
where it was before. What I'm questioning about the procedure you both
describe is that it seems to favor BOTH the A and B cancel coils. My B coil
is pushing with a ton of strength and it never fail to cancel a pin.
Wouldn't adjusting C and SC force an adjustment for both coils depending on
the position of the reverse switches? This is why I'm wondering if my coil
is on its way out. However Ron...I do have to pull the brass sleeve and make
sure that it's not out of place or if the plunger is rubbing in any way.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Rich" <ronnnrich at yahoo.com>
To: "Jukebox mailing list" <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 12:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] Seeburg C not cancelling pins - A side only


> Aaron,
>   I agree with Wes. The main reason for this failure, is that the mech was
not oiled correctly and the cam has worn, or someone has removed and
re-installed the cam without the proper shims. I do have a couple of
suggestions. First, make sure that the plunger in that cancel coil is clean
and free, also check that the brass sleeve has not moved within the coil.
Second, re-adjust the "C"-"SC" contacts to allow a LITTLE longer pulse. Even
if you do not re-adjust the contacts,  I strongly suggest that you install a
1/4 amp slo blow fuse in series with the cancel/pop meter coils. And--oil
the camshaft and rollers with 20wt ND oil.
>   Ron Rich
>
> Wesley Dean <wesleydean at cox.net> wrote:
>   Aaron, this is a common problem on early Seeburg jukes with a lot of cam
wear. Because the 'A' side contains more hits, the cams wear more when
playing this side. If you will notice when playing this side, the cam
assembly will jump forward and close the 'SC' switch too fast and shorten
the reset pulse. I have found two remedies for correcting this. One is to
modify the brake cam to offer more resistance when the cam is moving to play
position. The other is to install a 'pulse stretcher' circuit consisting of
a small relay and capacitor.
> The correct way would be to replace the cam assembly. Wes
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Aaron's Email"
> To: "Jukebox mailing list"
> Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 9:20 AM
> Subject: [Jukebox-list] Seeburg C not cancelling pins - A side only
>
>
> > Morning all,
> > It's not often that I digress away from telling the world about the
> > excellence of the AMI F and G series jukeboxes, but an embarrasing snafu
at
> > a house party last night involving my Seeburg C is forcing me to swtich
> > gears.
> >
> > Everything was going great until the mech stopped cancelling pins on the
A
> > side only. After listening to Horst Jankowski's "Walk in the Black
Forest"
> > about 5 times, and "You're So Fine" by The Falcons about 6 times, I
realized
> > that there's no way my 5 year old neice could have pressed A1 and C1
that
> > many times. So I checked the machine and sure enough, no A side pins
were
> > cancelling. This morning, I checked the contact block and found that it
was
> > still adjusted properly as per the "Contact Block Alignment" in the
manual.
> > I also checked IC switches and those seem OK as well. In fact, depending
on
> > where the reverse switch is located, I can manually close IC and hear
the
> > contact block solenoids energizing - but the stronger one of the two is
the
> > B side solenoid.
> >
> > After playing a record and sitting behind the mech and watching, I
noticed
> > that the A side solenoid seems very week....like it's barely getting
enough
> > juice to move the plunger up to cancel the pin. In fact, sometimes it
> > doesn't even move at all. Could it be that the solenoid is shot, or is
there
> > another adjustment that I need to check to see that the solenoid is
getting
> > power. I checked the reverse switch and it's polished clean and gapped
> > properly. Any thoughts?
> >
> > Hmmm....I just realized that I didn't even take the Christmas music out
of
> > it. Perhaps I should play this one a little more and not wait until I
have a
> > house full of people. :)
> >
> > Aaron
> >
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