[Jukebox-list] Wurlitzer 2410S problem

Fri May 25 16:20:36 PDT 2007

Ron, Steve, and all.
Yes, I agree, if there is a smoked coil, there would be a risk of burning up 
harness wiring or overheating the power source (transformer windings)...... 
but.... that's why you watch the meter like a hawk and if you see the 
displayed current go up, you either deselect or shut of the power or 
disconnect the ammeter to break the circuit.
At least then you have an idea which selector circuit is causing the 
over/current and you can track down the burned coil or whatever......

...of course all this assumes a smoked coil will cause an over/current. 
Maybe the thing that gives off a burnt smell is not one of the selector 
coils.
..... just a thought.
Have fun Steve.

I am processing JPGs for 14 radios and will be posting these new pix on my 
museum site tonight, with luck.
http://www.donsradiomuseum.com

Don

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Rich" <ronnnrich at yahoo.com>
To: "Jukebox mailing list" <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 2:19 PM
Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] Wurlitzer 2410S problem

> Don, Steve, and all,
>  Just wondering about this suggestion---
>  If the coil is already "smoked", would there be a risk of burning wiring 
> up, in the harness when using the meter to bridge the fuse??
>  Ron Rich
>
> Don <dontutt at telus.net> wrote:
>  Steve,
> Instead of blowing lots of fuses during your testing, why not put an 
> ammeter
> in place of the fuse? That way you can see how much current is being 
> drawn.
> ...... unless the pros around here think this is a bad idea.....
>
> Only reason I can think of that this is a bad idea is if you leave the 
> power
> on too long after detecting the over/current, OR you don't select a high
> enough Amp range on the meter and risk meter damage.
> Good luck,
> Don
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Ron Rich"
> To: "Jukebox mailing list"
> Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 8:55 AM
> Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] Wurlitzer 2410S problem
>
>
>> Steve,
>> Depending on the size of that "blown" fuse, you may, or may not have
>> burned a coil-
>> ALWAYS opt for a fuse of a lesser value, when the correct one is not
>> available. "Fusetron" was (is?) the trademarked name the Bussman Fuse
>> Company owns, for "SloBlo" type fuses. Other companies also make
>> SloBlows--no problem. 8/10 fuses are still being made--I have them if you
>> can't find one elsewhere.
>> To remove the selector, there are silk screened instructions as to which
>> two bolts to remove--and NOT to remove, on the mounting bracket. This is
>> also shown in most Wurly service manuals. Also, if you don't have the
>> alignment tool (usually attatched to the cabinet side in a "spring 
>> clip"),
>> you can use a # 2 Phillips screw driver in it's place. But first, make 
>> all
>> selections using all of the numbers, then the letters, and see if the .05
>> blows--then you'll know whch coil is bad. (ie: make selection using the
>> "A" and each number--then using any number, make selections using the
>> rest of the letters--take a few seconds time between the selections, as
>> you will "heat up" that .05 A. fuse, and it will let go--).
>> Ron Rich
>>
>>
>> Steve Wahl wrote:
>> Hi, everyone. Two questions burried in a bunch of !@#$ below:
>>
>> My 2410S was left on for a few hours the other day when I wasn't home,
>> and it reportedly started to smell hot, and my wife shut it off.
>>
>> When I got to it, there were three letter buttons held down, no
>> numbers though. (The machine is exposed to toddlers...) My wife
>> didn't notice them, the buttons may even have been push down after the
>> incident occurred.
>>
>> There may have been credit established at the time; I'm also not sure
>> about that. I have it set to 7 selections per coin, whether dime or
>> quarter, as a compromise between coin operation and free play; because
>> of this it does sit there with credit established at times. However,
>> we usually power it off when it's not actively being played.
>>
>> Here's what I found when I looked at it:
>>
>> Looking at the fuses, I found one blown fuse. It was supposed to be
>> an 8/10 amp fuestron, it's the one directly on the selector assembly,
>> not down in the junction box, etc. I believe fusetron is what the
>> label next to the fuse said; that's a brand of slow-blow fuse, right?
>> The fuse that was there was a regular, single thin wire fuse. I
>> didn't think to check its rating; it was a thin wire so I don't think
>> it was overfused by much if at all. (Still have the blown fuse, I'll
>> check it later). The wire still remained, but there is black residue
>> on the glass near the break -- looks more like a short than a slight
>> overload I think.
>>
>> QUESTION ONE: My local hardware store doesn't seem to have 0.8 A
>> fuses anymore! I have my choice between 1 A and 0.5 A; slow blow or
>> not. I put a 0.5 A slow blow in there for now. Does that seem like a
>> reasonable long-term solution?
>>
>> I tried manually tripping a selection finger, the selection played
>> just fine.
>>
>> Since I suspected the selection system, I turned off the mech motor,
>> and went to the front; and using the free-play switch, I walked
>> through and selected all the selections. First thing to note is that
>> some of them sounded normal, others sounded different; I'll describe
>> that in a bit. Then I went back and peered at the pins. Sure enough,
>> only certain ones selected.
>>
>> The ones that popped up were 1, 3, 6, and 8 for each letter. And 2's,
>> 4's, 7's, and 9's made a longer/louder "buzz" than usual when I
>> selected them. 5's and 0's made a different, but not quite right
>> sound.
>>
>> As I type this I realize I'm missing some information, like I should
>> have made a selection, looked at what finger tripped, and reset it
>> before I go on to try the next selection; because as it is, I don't
>> know if the ones that supposedly worked actually selected the right
>> selection, nor do I know if the ones that didn't work selected
>> nothing, or would pop the wrong pin.
>>
>> So I'm not asking you guys to make a diagnosis from that information,
>> especially from the description of the sounds it's making. :-)
>>
>> I'm also away from my manual as I type this, so forgive me if I screw
>> up a few terms here...
>>
>> I suspect that my problem lies in the solenoids/coils/etc. that
>> rotate the plate with the rockers on it. I assume that I'm going to
>> want to take the selection assembly off of the mechanism to examine
>> it. I want to make sure I read the manual right, to avoid alignment
>> problems. So,
>>
>> QUESTION TWO: To remove the selection assembly but maintain alignment,
>> I want to remove the three hex-head bolts from the bottom, but leave
>> the nearby phillips head screws alone. Did I get that right?
>>
>> Right now, I'm thinking I'll find some insulation melted and something
>> shorted, due to the reported smell (which does still linger), together
>> with the fast-blow fuse blowing. I don't think a quick short would
>> have heated up to give this much of a smell before blowing such a
>> small fuse.
>>
>> Anyway, answers to the two questions, offers of additional insight,
>> and wishes of good luck would all be greatly appreciated!
>>
>> --> Steve
>>
>> -- 
>> Steve Wahl steve at pro-ns.net
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