[Jukebox-list] cleaning the mech

[Aaron Heverin]

Jackie,
I've been so darn busy with work and a new baby that all I've been able to do is "read the mail" on most list postings. However, you've touched on a great subject with your Trashcan and I'm saying "SCREW THIS MEETING" I have to go to now so that I can reply.

My Trashcan was the last jukebox I restored and it was a top down job. The funny thing is that I did it while the juke was in my basement family-room. It's a model 148 with the metal cabinet, but it was VERY easy to restore. The only real pain in the neck was replacing the plastics. I had to be sedated after doing them because they drove my wife and I nuts. Other than that, I'd restore another Trashcan in a second.

The mech was the easiest one I've ever worked on...but they DO need to be very clean and lubncated so that those trays slide easily. You'll find that adjusting the tone-arm might be a bit tedious once everything is finished, but it's not bad.

The greatest thing about the Symphonola mech is that it's freestanding. You can put it on a table or a couble saw-horses and you're ready to go. I cleaned mine last December - outside in the cold - with a garden hose hooked up to my hotwater tank's waste outlet. I put the mech on two saw-horses with a couple of boards laying between the two - the mech was on the boards. I removed the turntable, the motor and coupling,  the cancel solenoid, tonearm lead-in wire, tone-arm, and then the entire mech cover. I also removed the springs. The other thing I removed was the plate on the side where the trays come to rest. I don't have my manual in front of me, but I think its held in place with four screws, and when you remove it, it has what looks like a comb. It's used for keeping the trays in place with some small metal clips that are also removable. You're going to want to clean those pins as well. Be carefull when you pull that plate off the mech because those pins are going to be left sitting on each slot and they will scatter all over the place when you clean the mech.

You can leave the "record now playing" cable in place (since you've already disconnected it from the front of the jukebox) and the helix...but just don't let it bounce around too much because once the mech cover is removed, the helix will want to swing around. Now that the mech is down to bare bones, spray the living hell out of it with Dow Scurbbing Bubbles. Let it soak for a while, when start brushing it down with a toothbrush or some other small brush. Rinse it with the hot water. This step will remove the lighter grease, nicotine, and dust covering. Then, spray the living hell out of it the gears and mechanical coupling areas with some sort of foaming engine cleaner - which can be had at any automotive parts store. Let it soak for a while, then start brushing. Again, rinse with hot water. Repeat these steps over and over until you have everything looking polished and/or a nice looking grey. Believe me, these mechs look AMAZING when clean. Oh...I also spray down with Spray 9 to get rid of any residual dirt, grease, or grime.

Once this is done, I'll blast the entire mech with my air compressor to remove any standing water. Then, it's into the shop where I'll sit it on another pair of saw-horses. Under the mech, and between the saw-horses, I'll place my portable, oil-filled, radiator heater - set on low. I cover the mech with a sheet and forget about it for a few hours. When it's all dry and toasty, start oiling EVERYTHING! Any mechanical coupling...gears...holes, cable, helix area...EVERYTHING!

All that's left is to clean those pins you took off ealier, the comb piece, reinstall the solenoid, turntable (making sure it's clean and re-flocked if necessary), the tone-arm (put a new cartridge in first), and new decals.

That's it..couple of days work, and you'll find that these mechs are easy to restore and really bomb-proof.

Sorry if parts of this email seem incoherent. Typing at work is troublesome. Let me know if you need any further information.


Aaron