[Jukebox-list] AMI I-200
John Robertson
pinball at telus.net
Tue Jan 1 15:53:01 PST 2008
Graeme Harvey wrote:
> In Australia we do not have the same number coding for these globes.
> The last box of 100 globes that I purchased here were, T10x28mm BA9S
> 6.3V 1W Would there be a conversion chart. The retailer
> advised me they were "equivalent to the #44"
> Graeme Harvey
>
BA9S is the socket base style - "miniature bayonet" in this case.
T10X28MM is normally the filament style and length of the glass bulb,
however a #44/47 bulb is a T3-1/4 size - I do not know what a T10 refers
to in size without my books (and they are at the shop). Perhaps Ron can
check that in his?
John :-#)#
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Rich" <ronnnrich at yahoo.com>
> To: <pinball at telus.net>; "Jukebox mailing list"
> <jukebox-list at lists.netlojix.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 7:39 AM
> Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] AMI I-200
>
>
>> Hi John,
>> Thanks for the chart--it made me search out the lamp spec books that
>> I had. According to both my "Sylvania" 1990, and my "Osram" 1996
>> books, there is an error on that chart. Both books show the # 755 as
>> a 20 K hour life lamp, rather than 2 K. In my opinion, this, combined
>> with the fact that it draws the same current as a 47 (.15), would
>> make it the best replacement--other than the fact it produces a
>> little less MSCD (.33 vs .50). If the lower light output is
>> tolerable, it is the one that I think I would use. Ron Rich
>>
>> John Robertson <pinball at telus.net> wrote:
>> Ron Rich wrote:
>>> Brian,
>>> Since the lamp is "contact driven", not "transistor driven", either
>>> a #44, or #47, or #51, will work. I don't re-call off hand, and
>>> can't get to my lamp info at the moment, but I think the #47 lamp
>>> puts out the highest amount of light. I think that the only
>>> difference between the 44 and 51, is the envelope shape. All have
>>> the same ("bayonet") base.
>>> I do not recall ever seeing blue or red number buttons in that model.
>>> Ron Rich
>>>
>>>
>> As for the light bulbs the differences are important. The #44 bulb is
>> the hottest, followed by the #47 (1/2 the wattage), then the smaller
>> #51. I would recommend that you NOT use #44s under any peice of plastic
>> that you care about - other than pinball playfields where you need to
>> illuminate an insert enough to see it in ambient light. In our pinball
>> world there are a lot of warped plastics and flacking backglasses
>> exacerbated by the use of #44 bulbs.
>>
>> I like the #51 as it is a smaller globe and less likely to overheat
>> anything close.
>>
>> I have a chart on flippers that shows light bulb characteristics:
>> http://flippers.com/lights.html
>>
>> John :-#)#
>>> The Roths wrote:
>>> I am prepping an AMI I-200 for sale and have a couple of questions.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 1. What is the correct light bulb for the credit and wait to select
>>> lights?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 2. What is the correct color of the selection keys? The letter keys
>>> are all red. Number keys 1-17 are green. Number 18 is blue. Numbers 19
>>> and 20 are red. Were the number keys all supposed to be green and
>>> somebody
>>> swapped in a couple of wrong colors to make a set or does it have
>>> something
>>> to do with the dual credit arrangement.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Any information is appreciated.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Brian
--
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, VideoGames)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out"
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