[Jukebox-list] Rock-Ola 445 does not remove the record

[Ron Rich]

Karl,
  It's my understanding that Rock-ola used a "graphite grease" to lube their gripper assemblys. It's also my understanding that the grease is made by mixing powered graphite with a non detergent oil. Therefore, following my sometimes wierd train of thought, its logical that the oil evaporates over time, and that replacing the oil, and"mixing" it with the remaining graphite, by "working" the gripper, will return the graphite grease to it's original form. Ron Rich

karlh44 <karlh44 at knology.net> wrote:
  While I am certainly not suggesting anything is better than disassembly, 
cleaning, and relubing, I just want to point out one thing. When using some 
sort of oil to penetrate old hardened grease/oil, as a less permanant fix 
of course, you are not replacing the original lubrication. You are replacing 
what has evaporated from that original lube and that's why it gets you by 
for a while. That's why working it in makes it work better and better. 
You're mixing your new oil with the hardened stuff, just like you'd add 
thinner to paint. It's not the best fix, but it'd be incorrect to say the 
new oil/whatever you use is now thinner than the original. The original lube 
would have to be completely displaced by the new for that to be completely 
true.

Karl
Columbus Coin-Op Shop
2061 S. Lumpkin Rd.
Columbus, GA 31903
(706)507-2963
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Rich" 
To: 
; "Jukebox mailing list" 

Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 1:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] Rock-Ola 445 does not remove the record


> John,
> I think that your "snap test" is better then my test--I would add that 
> when doing that test, do not push/pull on the gripper arm itself. Use the 
> base of the arm casting only. I have seen the gripper arm bow, both 
> broken and bent, on AMi and Rockola's. The only way that I can think of 
> that it could happen, is someone "pulling" on the casting. Ron Rich
>
> John Robertson 
wrote:
> I find that just turning the gripper motor by hand is best to catch
> these problems. There is a knurled shaft that sticks out of the of the
> end that allows this.
>
> As for taking apart vs lubrication, my suggest a simple test first. When
> the gripper arm has just grabbed the record and has moved about 1/2 inch
> up on its way home - turn the machine off. Now remove the record by
> pressing on the piston clamp. This should move freely with no grittiness
> or sluggishness at all. Secondly try pushing the gripper bow (the arm
> that wraps around the record). this too should move freely (spring
> action on both of these by the way) without any sluggishness. If you
> push either item to the opposite extreme and release, it should SNAP
> back to the clamp position.
>
> If the action is not a SNAP then I really think it is best to take the
> unit apart if you want a long term fix (say ten years before you have to
> look at it again). Putting fresh oil or penetrating oil is s short term
> (one year or so) fix, plus penetrating oil is thinner than the original
> and will not lubricate as well. Plus doing it right doesn't take more
> than about 1 hour to take apart, clean and then reassemble. Only one pin
> holds the thing together. A small pin punch (1/8 - 3/16 inch as I
> recall) and a nylon hammer and it pops apart in a minute or two.
>
>
>
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